Thursday, July 1, 2010

CANADA DAY and day 31

Happy Canada Day to all. We blew into Rimouski at about 1300 hours, after 202km trip from Saint-Jean-Port-Joli. Today was awesome, we were on the road at 0502 and dressed for the 8 degree, windy day. The road is highway 132, mostly a quiet rural road, and it travels north east predominately. The wind blew stronger as the day progressed and believe it or not it was from the north west, so finaly a wind assisted ride. The morning was bright and sunny and later cloudy but remained dry until 1400 hours.
Al of this to tell you that highway 132 should be a must visit for all Canadians. This road offers great views of the St. Lawerence river and the north shore. It runs through the rich farm lands of the Eastern townships, with there long fields as laid out 200 years ago. Every 10-15 km are reat little villages that have an European charm, with great houses right on the streets, narrow streets and wonderful churches, often with 2 steeples. We saw hikers, bikers, and no trucks. There is much to see and do, great little gift shops,restaurants, and excelent accomodation. The roads are very level, just enough variation to make it fun but even children would enjoy this area. With a wind at our backs, 40-45 kph was fun. A little further on my speed maxed out at 78.23 kph. WHAT A RUSH!
Approaching Rimoski the road joins with 20 and for 40 km the traffic is heavy. The shoulders are good and other than the noise of traffic no difficulties for the serious cyclist.
However, returning to the delights of highway 132, I'll mention that the decision to cross the Saint Lawerence river at Sorel was a last minute one. A good decision, June 30 we were treated to great views of the rivers and good cycling.The terrain is gentle and interesting. We are impressed by all the wonderful houses, large and small they outnumber the ordinary 2 to 1. Our custom is to ride for 2 hours and take a break, often this stretches to 3 hours and the break is appreciated. This day we stopped in the bright sunlight at a fruit and vegetable stand, and ate fresh produce and warm from the oven baking with apple cider, non alcoholic for sure. While enjoying our snack other cyclists we meet on the road passed. Father and son going from Toronto to Newfoundland. A lone french speaking man going from Montreal to Halifax. We passed them again later and played leap frog for the day. The lone felow pushed on much later in the day than we did. This despite unsettled weather all afternoon with showers and torrential downpours. We were pleased to stop at Saint-Jean-Port-Joli. A little village that thinks of itself as the center of wood carving for Canada. Very worthwhile visit. The artisants were happy to talk to us and we learned a lot
about woods and tools, Ofter the wood hae dried for 20 years and was the select quaity back then.
Home for the night was a great motel, resort on the Saint Lawerence, with a great view from our rooms and all the amnities of home. No. I am not working for the tourist bureau but I would recommend looking at this entire area and preferably from a bicycle seat.
The last few days have seen flat tires and blown tubes but not probelms. Rube and Cres have been very reliable and no complaints from either. A full tune up for both will be needed soon as the pounding on some roads is tremendous. The cobblestones of Europe have nothing on the frost heaves of Canada.
Anyone who is keeping track will be aware that the streak is intact, rain on very day but 3 in the 31 days to date. Had we waited for good weather we would be still in BC. As it is we will enter New Brunswick tomorrow at Campbellton. Then down along the coast, a pituresque drive. The major deadline ahead is our ferry booking to Newfoundland. We will try to stick to out plan of 200 km daily, but there are demanding ahead.
Earlier I spoke of the sounds of our trip and how it was taking on a unexpected major impression. The joys af nature, birds and animals, the rush of wind the hum of bicycle tires on dry pavemnt, and the hiss on wet. Conversation is possible and I feel at peace with the country. Contrasted with the almost unbearable noise of busy traffic which overwhelmes all senses, not just hearing. Cycling is one of the quiet sports as is Nordic skiing and the "peace of quiet" is one of their chief attractions. Rural cycling is much more fun for Tom and I both and thus we have gone well out of our way to avoid cities. The largely empty roads of 0500-0800 make the early rising totaly worthwhile. Those first 3 hours allow us to look around a lot more whereas later it is full concentration to the road. Also the cool of the day and the sunrise are fully appreciated.
Triva buffs know this. Dehydration is not a problem in tha cold rain so dehydration has been a none factor this trip. Keeping our energy levels has been fun and no major weight changes. Minor scrapes and muscle aches and very few of even these.
Tomorrow promises to be another cool day and the preparation includes getting wet clothing ready for another round. We do not use the sniff test, this is an outside game and odiferous shoes and socks are part of the game. Replenish, repair and rest replace the more traditional 3 R's.
There are a fair number of photos and several logs af our experiences. Perhaps with time we can create a resource for others who may wish to cycle al or parts of the route. Almost to a person the people we have meet are helpful, pleasant and take time for us. Many of the best experiences have just happened and are not the result of careful planning. Planning does allow the freedom to improvise because the basics are al covered. Basics include good friends for travel companions, good fitness, and good equippment. A sense of joy in the little things and at least a small sense of adventure.
Happy Canada Day to all and especially to family. RRM

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