Sunday, July 11, 2010

Day 41, Tom Foolery Accomplished

My Dad and many of his generation would have described our ride as Tom Foolery, harmless fun with no meaning. Especialy this type of undertaking as it requires a lot of effort and commitment not to mention time. On the other hand it was a lot of fun. 41 days of travel and rain on 35 days including today. Our trip could be described as how to go from sea to sea and never get dry.
The last 5 days have been controlled by our ferry ride so we have been able to reduce cycling to 100 km daily and have enjoyed the leisurely schedule. Today was another easy day with about 90km to do and all day to do it. Roads were amazingly good and a strong wind was often helping us and rarely fully challenging us. Despite our best efforts Jenny and Valerie became seperated from Tom and I. Several phone calls later "it was all good" and we reached Signal Hill about 1030 and enjoyed the view of St. Johns and the ocean. The wind on the hill was amasing, 100 kph with gusts greated that that. Gusts well over 200 kph are common here, hard to hold the camera steady.
Yesterday the ferry arrived 1.5 hours late due to fog. We jumped on our bikes about 1730 hours and started down highway 100. First 2 km were up hill and eating the wind, Next 40 km were wonderful. Great pavement, quiet roads, following wind and lots of energy. We thought we were ready for the Tour and realized the Tour riders are faster uphill than we are on the level with a tail wind, and not just a little faster but 30% faster. Tour riders are the age of Tom'c children and slightly older than my grandchildren. Do you hear excuses, I do.
All of this to say the task is done, we have pedalled our asses from coast to coast. Jenny has driven coast to coast. A woman who takes 3 rights to avoid a left in Perth. Thank you Valerie and Jenny for your support that allowed us to attempt this ride. Thanks to all those at home who pitched in to meet our responsibilities while we were gone.
Low points and highlights will change over time as memories fade and the reference points change. The big challenge for this type of trip is the daily physical demands and the constant need for safety. Good luck and good training allowed success. The hard part was in the west when the rains and winds and cold temperatures made it very difficult to complete 200 km daily. We were falling well off the pace until one day after 125 km in the rain we stopped and rested and then at 1700 hours started again and did another 55 kn that evening. The following day we did our first 200 km day, I think about 220 km and then for the next days we stayed above 200 km daily. These 200-260 km days allowed us to regain confidence and with that confidence the rest was easy. This was our turning point, the key to our success. The wind was a challenge, a real challenge, the rain and cold were unpleasant, the climbs and descents got the pulse racing but the key was that second run in Sask.
Tom and I have skied together for years. This means that we each ski at our own pace and keep an eye on the other. Some days I was faster, some days Tom. Now Trent leads the way and I follow behind Tom, often away behind. Biking has gone exactly like that. Each travelling at his own pace and helping each other as required. We did a little drafting and yes we know that is the smart way to go. However for us that isn't comfortable and most of the 7000 km we each did our thing. It was good fun to ride with such a strong and positive companion. He has become Tbow to us and his strength will become legendary in our family. Physical strength yes but also strength of character and emotional strength. Thanks for the ride Tbow.
This is the last time I will do this blogging thing. It has been good fun to try this " Tom Foolery", Canada is worth seeing, having fun is worth doing, a little exercise is great and a challenge makes every day better. I had not expected to share the experience in this way. It seems weird to me that others would be interested but apparently some are. Keeping track of the distances travelled, the speeds sustained, the changes in altitude, and the maximum speeds are not my interest and occasionally I have been wrong, Always closs but often underestimating the days run. Tbow's computer has all of that. The people we meet and the country we saw are my focus.Cycling is about living in the present, and safety is about concentration, unwavering concentration. This was my reward. When all is going well and you can "giv'er", I mean really "giv'er" thats a special high. To have the luxury to do that day after day all the way across our country has been magical. Weeks from now it will seem unreal. We will return to our real lives a little better prepared for the challenges and opportunities that present.
Cres and Rube report that they are not going out in the rain again, not ever. They have given Tbow and I a grudging passing grade but want you all to know that given a Tour rider they could be climbing the Alps and winning races. Cres with 2 red tires remains as vain as reported earlier. Rube on the other hand continues to feel great since his Port Credit rehab. Cres has offered a Westport block for all you bikes, but the stronger ones may wish to do the Calabogie, Renfrew, Arnprior loop. This latter is about 20o km and a good weather offer only. Keep your chain clean and test those brakes and see you on the road. RRM

Saturday, July 10, 2010

sat day 40

Great night on Ferry drove onto ferry at 1am in cabin by 130 walked around then all in bed. Jen and I took the top bunks boys asleep right away we took a little longer very dark in room didnt get up till 9. Very foggy, watched movies and great entertainerment by 2 local singers. The ride end up being 15 hours a bit longer due to the fog all day, landed in Argentia at 5:00pm off ferry 530 boys on there bikes, pictures taken at the Nfld welcome sign. They biked 45.6 km in temp of 20 and great winds at there bikes average 30 per hour one of there best rides.
We are in a hotel in Whitbourne,just went our for supper and we are all tired.
Tomorrow is day 41 which is thier last day, we are heading to St.Johns about 90km.ride. We have a rest day monday,touring around St. Johns and area then we catch the Ferry back. Ross will do the blog tomorrow I know he is much more descriptive. good night everyone see you next week. val b

Friday, July 9, 2010

FRIDAY DAY 39

HOT NIGHT LAST NIGHT NOT ALOT OF SLEEP HAPPINING, WE LEFT AROUND 5 WENT TO SPOT WERE WE LEFT OFF AND AWAY THEY WENT CROSSED A SMALL VERY I WAS HERE 3 YEARS AGO WITH MY SISTERS, ONTO HIGHWAY 105 TO NORTH SYDNEY.HEADING UP KELLY MOUNTAIN 240 EVALATIONS ,LOVELY BRIDGE CROSSING AT BRAS D'OR,AT ABOUT 40KM WE PULLED OVER WITH BLUE SKIES AND ABOUT 21 DEGREES,TOM AND ROSS WERE DOING GREAT WE MADE IT TO THE FERRY AT 8AM BIKED 58 TODAY AND IT IS DONE TILL WE CATCH THE FERRY TO NFLD AT 130AM EARLY SAT MORNING. WE GOT A HOTEL NEAR BY FOR THE DAY UNLOADED VAN ,ROSS CLEANED WE WENT THROUGH OUR LUGGAGE, WE RELAXED FOR AWHILE WATCHING TOUR D FRANCE JEN WAS IN HER GLORY ABOOUT 1 WE HEADED TO SYDNEY WERE WE HAD LUNCH, WALKED THE BOARDWALK AND DID A LITTLE SHOPPING ON THERE MAIN STREET THEY HAVE ABOUT 27000 IN SYDNEY SOME LOVELY HOMES. THREE OF US HUNG OUT AROUND THE POOL FOR AWHILE ,TOM AND I WENT FOR A DRIVE CAME BACK WE ALL HAD A NAP FOR A COUPLE OF HOURS UP AT 830 HAD A SNACK AT THE MOTEL THEN WE ALL WENT FOR A WALK STILL ABOUT 25 OUT THERE , BACK IN ROOM WAITING TILL 11:30 WHEN WE HEAD OUT TO THE FERRY WHICH LEAVE AT 1:30.
THE BOYS HAVE ABOUT 6800 KM IN AND ONLY 3 SHORT DAYS LEFT OF BIKING WHAT A COMPLISHMENT .LOOKING FORWARD TO THE FERRY RIDE AND HAVING A FEW DAYS IN NFLD,
JEN SAYS THE KEYS ARE BEING AWAY SOON SHE HAS NEVER DID SO MUCH DRIVING IN HER LIFE. SHE IS DOING GREAT I THINK WE ARE A GREAT TEAM S&S ABIT OF SHOPPING AND A LOT OF SUPPORT. TO EACH OTHER AND WE ARE THERE FOR THOSE BOYS. STARTING TO PACK THE FAN AGAIN LEAVING NOVA SCOTIA THE CABOT TRAIL WAS AMAZING LOVE THE SMELL OF THE OCEAN AND THAT SALT AIR. HELLO TO ALL FAMILIES AND FRIENDS THANKS FOR THE NOTE THANKS TO KAREN AND STEVE FOR WATCHING MY COTTAGE TALK TO YOU SOON AND CATCH UP IN STORIES HOPE IT COOLS DOWN FOR ALL OF YOU. XXXXXXXOOOOOO VAL B

Thursday, July 8, 2010

Cabot Trail Day 37&38

Hello from Sea Parrot Oceanview Manor on the Cabot trail near Baddeck. The Cabot Trail is not realy necessary to the cross Canada run but when we are right here we coudn't resist. Named after John Cabot who was here in 1497. this loop around Cape Breton is world renowned for the scenery and recently a meca for cyclists. The entire route is awesome for the rugged terain, the ocean, the wildlife and the friendly people.
At this point we are a day ahead of schedule, a schedule controlled by the ferry ride to Newfie. This allows days of 120-140 km, that means stopping earlier in the day and a chance to explore. Yesterday we were able to go whale watching for 3 hours. A pod of pilot whales entertained us for 2 hours. Probaby 11 whales and 2 young, that are being raised by the pod. "It takes a village to raise a child"The full grown whale is about 7 meters and 2000kg. They swim and travel as a group and we saw them logging. Logging refers to resting on the surface for a minute or so and seems to be when they sleep. Talk about your power nap.
The captain of the 22 year old fishing boat has been a commercial fisherman for 32 years and taking folk whale watching for 7 years. He is amazing skillfull with the 12 meter boat which has a Perkins diesel engine thatmakes about 12 knots. New the boat is about 150,000, and will last about 50 years. This happened from Pleasant Bay, a community of 150 people. Captain and mate are live long residents. No internet, no cell phones, no movies. A date is a trip to the beach, bonfire and what ever comes next. Good meals at the Mid Way Motel restaurant and a quiet place to sleep.
Today we are just north of Baddeck at a wonderful resort on St Ann's bay. Our great luck holds and we found this place on the recommendation of our waiter at breakfast 60 km ago. We found a vacany but the place is fully booked for next 8 weeks. Awesome grounds and spacious,clean and well appointed rooms. Another place that would be worth a second visit. One km up the road is the Clucking Hen, bake shop and restaurant. Best food anywhere. Named as one of Canada best and written up in Globe and Mail this spring. Roast beef sandwhich, soup, lemon pie and butter tarts made a great snack.
Several shops with local artisans showing their work, beautiful blown glass, stained glass, wood work etc. How do these shops survive? The owner is there and will chat you up for hours and few sales. Good fun for us though.
When it is all said a bike trip is about the biking. The Cabot Trail is famous for the scenery, and all though things you can do from a car. For Bikers the hills are the game. There are at least 4 major climbs and lots of steep ,short climbs that keeps the pulse up. We are travelling clockwise and the first major climb was French mountain, 450 meters of climbing and for me at least was a surprise. This was late in the ride, a good thing as we were well primed. However it was hot, 29 degrees, and a challenge because with every turn the road kept climbing. The descent with traffic all around us was exciting. Even with full braking our speed was well beyond safe. Full braking is a risk as the rims heat to the point that tires fail. Then over you go, no way you can ride the rim. The days run was about 127 km with average speed of 27kph. Maximum was 82 kph.
Today we started as early as possible with several climbs and a hot day we wanted to enjoy the empty roads as long as possible. North Mountain is about 4 km from Pleasant Bay. Not quite far enough to wake up the muscles. This is described as the grand daddy of the hills and it is a steep climb over about 6 km and up to 13 degree slope. As expected a good workout but not overwhelming. The descent is another matter altogether. Tiring going up, ok stop. In trouble going down a 13-14 % grade at 80+ kph and a trauma team will be you best friends. Tom with his usual confidence blew through this with ease, I on the other hand hAD A WONDERFUL RIDE, thrilling through the switchbacks and dazzling at the bottom. This isn't Disney World, the great riders are injured in the Tour de France, but relax you must and go with our old friend gravity. Did I go right back up and do it again? No!Seriously though for you cyclists, it is a challenge but not severe under the conditions we enjoyed, early in the day and no traffic. Pavement is good and safe to let'er run.
The south mountain is dismissed as not as hard. If North wasn't there South would be considered a worthy test. Long climb but more gradual and descent is more fun as you can really LET IT GO. At Neil's Harbour we had a break and I visited with the paramedics and Er staff. Then along down the south run of the Cabot Trail we went innocent and uniformed. Then one of the usual climbs kept on going for km after km, what was this?No one told us about Smokey mountain. Well ok, so what a long but easy climb , lasting too long in the heat but no problem we are at the top, have a drink and a 10 km run down again. Upps, what is happening? Why can't I see the road ahead? Like a ski run when the descent is steep enough you have to cross the lip to see the run. Smokey had a thrill for us!Down 300 meters in about 1 km, brakes protesting and very tight switch backs and road signs saying speed limit of 20 kpha dn we are flying. A complete surprise that was over very quickly and no harm done, just a comment from Tom, "all that climbing and I had to use my brakes all the way down"
Cycling the cabot Trail is great, probably a must for all road cyclists, a challenge, fun and delightfull for all the other reasons mentioned. The theme for this road is "just giv'er" As a bonus to our trip it was worthwhile and the previous 6500 km had us well prepared.
Tomorrow into North Sydney for the ferry and then Newfie's our home.
Today early morning I saw a deer, a fox and almost ran over a chipmunk who coudn't decide whether to cross the road or not, and turned once too often. One tail injury One major surprise is how few cyclists we are seeing. We expected to see hundreds and are seeing only 2 or 3 a day. A little disappointing as the company would be fun. Evidently we are early and August and September are the busy months. That means the risk o
f snow on the high ground and indeed there are shelters available for use. This way seems preferable to me and allowed us to find accomodation without difficulty.
At this point we are all missing out real worlds and look forward to resuming our routines. Birthdays to catch up and lots of people to thank and stories to tell. Whatever you hear divide by half and subtract a little and you will have the facts. Do you know who sang Happy Trails To You? So partner until we meet again keep on smiling. RRM

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

DAY 37

Day started just before 6am leaveing Whycocomagh NS on the Cabot Trail. 20 km away valerie went down to a beach at 615 and there was a bald eagle 4feet away on a branch. took alot of pictures. In Cheticamp at about 90 km in we stopped for breakfast around 9:40. Jen and I did a little shopping famous for rug hocking.
about 20 min later the boys had a wild climb up French mountain 11% grade and a 455meter . they did very well tom without stopping.Well going down was wild 12% fast and windy. we are in Pleasant bay now they biked 120 km a little farther than planed . A lovely place called Mid Trail.gorgeous view at harbour and ocean.
Tom Ross and I went Whale watching for 2hours , unbelievable we saw about 15 pilot whales for about an hour they come up every 5.5min the noise was fasinating, the young ones were great to watch .the whale were right beside the boat.
Went for a nice seafood dinner right at motel lovely but poor Tom alergic had linguini. we splurged and each had a different desert to fininsh off our day. Tom and i drove to get ice and then to a monastary ,buda, they own a lot of acreage on top of the mountain saw a few walking around and they have a beautiful mounument. I walked down to the beach while the rest were getting ready for tomorrow. We are heading to Ingonish and another big climb up north mountain. The rest are asleep so i better join them as we are up at 445. The temp went to 26 great i feel bad how hot is in ontario Katie caming with work hope surviving. Hi to all family and friends following love you all tom and val, Jenn and Ross by val b

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Day 36, Nova Scotia

Hello from Whycocomagh. No of coarse I can't pronounce it. However I am enjoying being here, just off highway 105 in Capr Breton. We are in a delightful cottage on a bay of Bras D'Or Lake, a wonderful lake that is in central Cape Breton. At present we are having light showers, and have been all afternoon. This am was perfect, cool, overcast and windy, at lunch the sun broke free and was way too hot (like Perth) but the clouds quickly covered it up and biking is a delight.
This am we left at 0525 from New Glasgow on # 104 and as usual had a vacant highway for 2 hours. Even at its worst the biking here is great. Lots of long climbs and descents are fast and have great runouts. Surprisingly we saw only 3 other cyclists all day. Had a great breakfast at Ault Cove, and saw wonderful photos of animals including moose, deer, eagles, squirrels, bears and seals. Rolf Bauman, the photographer, has a gallery connected to the restaurant and sells 3 additions of his book, each dedicated to one of his children. Worth a look.
Today,s run was 160 km in about 5 hours at average speed of 27.9kph. This allowed us to stop early and enjoy this cottage. Tom is cooking steak, and we will feast tonight. The plan is a trip around the Cabot Trail over the next few days and a ferry ride to Newfie. Another flat tire for Tom and the replacement also going flat. Hopefully problem solved.
Interesting lady working here today. She lived in Boston and came here 18 months ago to help her sister run this facility. She plans to return to Boston, as in this commu nity of 200 people there is no Bloomingdales. This area is a reserve with about 800 living there. The reservation has all facilities supplied and this rattles this lady. Leading to a conversation that Rod understands.
There are hundredrs of eagles here and they feed early in morning from the bay. Hopefuly we can see some . No swimming in lake, boating of all varietes, but not even much water skiing. The view is wonderful and that is the draw for people. I have photos of the cottage and central lodge and we can recommend a stay here when you are passing through.
a break now for supper. That was good, now fueled and ready to roll. Bikes to clean and clothing washed and passing the sniff test. Sun tans are perfect for bikers, arms and face and mid thigh distally all brwn or red and remainder ghost white. Noses are peeling and bleeding but abrasions are healing and we will not be mobbed by photographers. Soon I expect pony tails and ear rings. Perhaps a great new look for us. Not!
The maritimes are always special, with the boats and colors of the houses. Great piles of lobster traps, ropes and floats and all equipment dockside making my camera fire away. Hopefully some whale watching and seal sightings over the next 2 days. Even the architecture is sufficently different to fascinate. Shingled buildings are common and the weathered ook predominates. The scents of the ocean are a major part of the experience. Here away from the highwy the silence is full of birds and wsater and wind. Sounds that regenerate rather than exhaust
Good night from al of us, hope your shoes fit and remember your mother's advice. Clean underwear!RRM

Monday, July 5, 2010

Province 9, Day 35

Hello from New Glascow. Wecome to our trip and Tom and I thank you for taking an interest. We are having a lot of fun and each day offers new challenges and new people to meet. Today we met 2 men from Quebec who are on their way to St. Johns as well. They are carrying a lot of equipment and have been 30 days on the road. Tomorrow we will be on Cape Breton and then on the Cabot Trail, one of the most cyced roads in the world.
Backing up a little. Yesterday we went from Miramichi NB to Borden PEI. The highlight of that run was Shediac Bridge. A small community north of Shediac, The river and area is beautiful. Bright , warm and sunny with wonderful flowers, wild and cultivated. Gardens both formal and informal, houses large and grand and smaller and charming. We had a great breakfast there. Usuallt this is after the first 100 km of the day so it gives a good break. Roads through this area are generaly poor and need resurfacing. We found a great rural road, 955, along the coast, almost no traffic and good climbs and descents. Pavement on the other hand was a chaenge. Stopped for fluids at a little stand at Murray Beach, had great spring with lots of cold clean water. Ok McLeans, no after effects. Another storey for another day.
Mid day Tom and I had the largest ice cream cones imaginable. The medium cone had 2 large scoops and then another scoop on top just as large as the first 2. Impossible to eat fast enough to control melting, even hungry and tired hot men coulnd't do it. Great!
Next across Confederation Bridge to PEI. 12.9 km long and 30-60 meters above the sea it is like any other stretch of road except the crosswinds are such that no bicycles are allowed and evn walking is prohibited.
It is 8-10 years since I last visited PEI and there are a lot of signs of economic hardship. Roads are poor, many tourist attractions are closed and there did not seem to be the expected crowds for a July weekend. My personal disappointment was to find that Woodleigh Replicas has closed. This was a wonderfull oasis of peace and quiet with immaculate grounds for 30 acres, grand shade trees, gardens and walks and amazing minature buildings, scale madels of famous cathedrals and castles in England. Some were 30 meters long and others as small as 3 meters. Today it is closed and for sale, we wandered the property, I sat on the grass under a great oak tree and tried to visualize a plan to reopen this area. It was so quiet and relaxing it is good thing and am about 5 million short or I might have bought it.
Even Geen Gables wasn't busy or as spify as usual. The island remains for me one of the most beautiful and inviting places to live. Wonderful sea scapes and equally wonderful agricultural lands are certainly chocolate for my eyes. Lots of great hills to bike. Today we biked acress the island from Boeden to Woods Island to catch the fery. A little detour on road 207 brings a recommendation avoid 207, terrible surface.
The second detour was to Murray Harbour, a fihing village on the south coast. Wonderful lunch, and Tom chatted up the local fishermen while I wandered around taking pictures and Jenny and Valerie did what? Shopped you guessed. Right. We also passed the only winery on the island, no chance to sample. Folks PEI has enough hills to challenge so when you visit make certain your bike has some low gears.
Ferry from Woods island to Caribou NS is 75 minutes and it was a very smooth passage. I slept on deck and Tom admits to the odd snooze. Back on the bike for about 20 km to New Glascow through Abercrombie a prosperous community with a great location on the Northumberland Strait.Good and tired today and in need of rest. Today got warm,and humid and we are glad to shower and change shorts.
Yesterday was about 172 km in 7 hours and today 134 km in 6 hours. Showing that numbers can deceive, these lower volumes were demanding and challenging due to pavement and traffic and terrain. Tomorrow back to the bigger numbers as we cross into Cape Breton. Also back into rain, the last 2 days have been essentially dry with only slight showers and presented no problems. This is certainly preferrable to the intense heat of Ontario. The fishermen tell us that this is as hot as it gets in PEI. I suspect that Cavendish beach gets a lot hotter than their end of the island.
Incidentally Cres and Rube are talking again. Rube had his nose out of joint after Cres got a second red tire and looked very spiffy. It is hard for the other bikes we meet to accept that Rube and Cres have come so far in this period of time. The others are heavily ladden and built more for strength and less for speed. Cres certainly gives them all the slip in a hurry. Going off the front which is the hard way. This means that the other bikes are drafting and getting a 15% reduction in work and therefore can usually keep up no matter how strong the front bike is but Cres doesn't mind he just powers away as comfortably as drinking a DQ milkshake. Hopefully as we hit the Cabot Trail they will tell us their stories and adventures.
Strong team, good effort and lots of fun. Special birthday wishes for Helen Bowes and Graeme Bews both working on the same decade. Good night, don't let the bed bugs bite. RRM

Sunday, July 4, 2010

Day 34 now in PEI

started the morning at 5:25 16 degrees shorts on tom took shell off 1 hour later, at 46km boy stopped and had chocolate milk and wild strawberry i picked while waiting for them, at 72 k Jen and i went in to Tim got snacks and went back to the side of road and had a picnic with the boys when they came in. We were in Bouchtouch NB on highway 11 heading to Shediac. We saw alot of rd kill 2 foxes 4 raccoon, and at least 10 porkypines.WE stopped at 9:22 with 95.8 kmin temp 20 degrees for breakfast, Jen and I stopped and got a few grocery in Shediac, then lost sight of the boys we got to Confereration bridge around noon the bridge is 12.8 long over the Northumberland straight completed in 1997 alot of trafic coming and going the boys arrived 135 they had stopped for icecream once then drinks second time got to bridge 1:35. Way we go to PEI By to New Brunswick loved Dalhousie were my dad from went to the house he grew up in saw My Uncle Bob and aunt Betty.great seeing relatives i think it was 12 yrs.
Found a motel 10 min from bridge as the boys have to start from there tomorrow.
Went on tour to Anne Green GAble and the country side. Fields and fields of potatoes,some mustardfields, a few dairy farms ,but the red soil and the beautiful rolling and different shades of green field, is something else .A really worth while drive to come to PEI. Went to a lovely fish rest. all had seafood tom only fish back to hotel at 730 Tom and Ross very tired now but getting organized for tomorrow a bit of a sleep in. they are leaving at 6 jen and i 7 a sleep in day yes!!!!
a rest day only doing 100 km touring more of PEI then catching a ferry to Noca Scotia around 5.
Happy birthday Helen, Katie hope cottage is still standing , Jeff hope you had a good time at the wedding in London, Scott glad to here your race went well glad you had company.love you all hi to my sisters and there famiies and the Bowes and Pentney gang and friends that are following along . having a great time val b

Saturday, July 3, 2010

July 23, Miramichi

Hello from province seven. Tonight in Miramichi, NB. Yesterday was 211km, today 210 km. Approx 1400 km in 1 week and 200 kn tomorrow will put us on PEI. Tom had a maximum speed on the run into Rimuski of 78.4 kph, same place that I had 78.2, what a rush. However today crosssing the bridge in Miramichi with a severe cross wind was a lot more stressful. Amazing feeling to try to deal with a wind that maves the van around and to do so on a bridge, 30 meters in the air and with about 20 cm wide lane. The traffic was heavy and didn't give us a break at all.
We are in the habit of starting at first light and that is the key. At that time you wil have 2-3 hours of empty roads, and cool weather and for us rain. Day 33 brings our 29th day of rain. Yesterday a tail wind and clear skies allowed an easy 211 km, today head winds and rain and a hard 210 km.
Today we saw a moose and deer, several volutures and the wild life were driving Harley's. Several mechanical problems, tire changes, and little spills continue to keep our life interesting. Some difficulties reading the road signage have added km to our route. Good visit to Dalhousie, David's brother Bob is there and Valerie and Tom had a visit. Dalhousie has a great hill on highway 134, climbing it is certainly and intense experience. In a 500 meter test pulses go from 60 to 180 and respiratory rate from 20 to 60 a minute. Pass this test and skip your next stress test.
Tonight there is a big 60's dance that was recommended. After 8.5 hours cycling we decided to dance up a storm. Picture it, old age pensioners thinking they are cool in 60's style clothing and hearing aids turned down for the music, and the doors open to clear the odour of A535 abd Absorbine Junior. Ancient type decorations, but at least no smoking and no teachers checking for smuggled beer. The dancing is just like Dancing with the Stars, the first 2 shows where most are poor and a few are terrible and one or two couples preform at another level completely. Picturing all of this we ate steak instead.
Yesterday Tom and I had Firecrackers thrown at us. No harm intended or done, but the bang made us think of a blown tubes. Lots of folk taking an interest in what we are doing. However people here seem to have less time to chat then in west. At breakfast Valerie chatted with a lady who does some cycling and Tom and I with a group of 3 men who thought we were certifiable. Probably right. The truckers we talk to hardly believe we have come this far in 33 days.
The homes along the Baie Des Chaleurs are very charming, some are hugh but most are delightful examples of good things in small packages. Along the St Lawerence the homes are bigger and grander. However no boates are in sight and I expect this is all about the view rather than active water front living. I never tire of going around the next corner or over the next hill . The surprises are usually good and unpredictable. A midway and fair in Campbellton for example.
Today we had to choose between two roads. 134 run along the water and is very scenic. 11 is a new road, good for going places, shorted, flatter, better pavement, and designed specifically for getting there in a hurry. Based on a long way to go I chose 11. Wrong. Better to work harder for less distance and more satisfaction minute by minute. After 50 km of 11 we returned to 134. Picking our way on bad pavement and through towns and detours was worth the stimulation of observing martime life. Later we followed signs to 8, and found ourselves 10 km down the wrong road, but turning around brought the wind to our aid and speed improved from 23 to 37 kph. Turtle to a hare.
The Tour de France begins today, guys racing 225 km daily in 5-6 hous without a break. They eat and drink on the fly, don't ask about eliminate. Now that is interesting and challenging. We will try to follow the race in the evenings but what we are doing is far more fun. Time to visit and sightsee and rest and munch. Looking forward to PEI one of y favorite places in Canada. Forecast calls for rain, so whats new? RRM

Thursday, July 1, 2010

CANADA DAY and day 31

Happy Canada Day to all. We blew into Rimouski at about 1300 hours, after 202km trip from Saint-Jean-Port-Joli. Today was awesome, we were on the road at 0502 and dressed for the 8 degree, windy day. The road is highway 132, mostly a quiet rural road, and it travels north east predominately. The wind blew stronger as the day progressed and believe it or not it was from the north west, so finaly a wind assisted ride. The morning was bright and sunny and later cloudy but remained dry until 1400 hours.
Al of this to tell you that highway 132 should be a must visit for all Canadians. This road offers great views of the St. Lawerence river and the north shore. It runs through the rich farm lands of the Eastern townships, with there long fields as laid out 200 years ago. Every 10-15 km are reat little villages that have an European charm, with great houses right on the streets, narrow streets and wonderful churches, often with 2 steeples. We saw hikers, bikers, and no trucks. There is much to see and do, great little gift shops,restaurants, and excelent accomodation. The roads are very level, just enough variation to make it fun but even children would enjoy this area. With a wind at our backs, 40-45 kph was fun. A little further on my speed maxed out at 78.23 kph. WHAT A RUSH!
Approaching Rimoski the road joins with 20 and for 40 km the traffic is heavy. The shoulders are good and other than the noise of traffic no difficulties for the serious cyclist.
However, returning to the delights of highway 132, I'll mention that the decision to cross the Saint Lawerence river at Sorel was a last minute one. A good decision, June 30 we were treated to great views of the rivers and good cycling.The terrain is gentle and interesting. We are impressed by all the wonderful houses, large and small they outnumber the ordinary 2 to 1. Our custom is to ride for 2 hours and take a break, often this stretches to 3 hours and the break is appreciated. This day we stopped in the bright sunlight at a fruit and vegetable stand, and ate fresh produce and warm from the oven baking with apple cider, non alcoholic for sure. While enjoying our snack other cyclists we meet on the road passed. Father and son going from Toronto to Newfoundland. A lone french speaking man going from Montreal to Halifax. We passed them again later and played leap frog for the day. The lone felow pushed on much later in the day than we did. This despite unsettled weather all afternoon with showers and torrential downpours. We were pleased to stop at Saint-Jean-Port-Joli. A little village that thinks of itself as the center of wood carving for Canada. Very worthwhile visit. The artisants were happy to talk to us and we learned a lot
about woods and tools, Ofter the wood hae dried for 20 years and was the select quaity back then.
Home for the night was a great motel, resort on the Saint Lawerence, with a great view from our rooms and all the amnities of home. No. I am not working for the tourist bureau but I would recommend looking at this entire area and preferably from a bicycle seat.
The last few days have seen flat tires and blown tubes but not probelms. Rube and Cres have been very reliable and no complaints from either. A full tune up for both will be needed soon as the pounding on some roads is tremendous. The cobblestones of Europe have nothing on the frost heaves of Canada.
Anyone who is keeping track will be aware that the streak is intact, rain on very day but 3 in the 31 days to date. Had we waited for good weather we would be still in BC. As it is we will enter New Brunswick tomorrow at Campbellton. Then down along the coast, a pituresque drive. The major deadline ahead is our ferry booking to Newfoundland. We will try to stick to out plan of 200 km daily, but there are demanding ahead.
Earlier I spoke of the sounds of our trip and how it was taking on a unexpected major impression. The joys af nature, birds and animals, the rush of wind the hum of bicycle tires on dry pavemnt, and the hiss on wet. Conversation is possible and I feel at peace with the country. Contrasted with the almost unbearable noise of busy traffic which overwhelmes all senses, not just hearing. Cycling is one of the quiet sports as is Nordic skiing and the "peace of quiet" is one of their chief attractions. Rural cycling is much more fun for Tom and I both and thus we have gone well out of our way to avoid cities. The largely empty roads of 0500-0800 make the early rising totaly worthwhile. Those first 3 hours allow us to look around a lot more whereas later it is full concentration to the road. Also the cool of the day and the sunrise are fully appreciated.
Triva buffs know this. Dehydration is not a problem in tha cold rain so dehydration has been a none factor this trip. Keeping our energy levels has been fun and no major weight changes. Minor scrapes and muscle aches and very few of even these.
Tomorrow promises to be another cool day and the preparation includes getting wet clothing ready for another round. We do not use the sniff test, this is an outside game and odiferous shoes and socks are part of the game. Replenish, repair and rest replace the more traditional 3 R's.
There are a fair number of photos and several logs af our experiences. Perhaps with time we can create a resource for others who may wish to cycle al or parts of the route. Almost to a person the people we have meet are helpful, pleasant and take time for us. Many of the best experiences have just happened and are not the result of careful planning. Planning does allow the freedom to improvise because the basics are al covered. Basics include good friends for travel companions, good fitness, and good equippment. A sense of joy in the little things and at least a small sense of adventure.
Happy Canada Day to all and especially to family. RRM